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Today I try my best to help the kids."While in the West some might associate Iran's restrictions on freedom with the religion of Islam, it's over-simplistic to assume that this mass dissatisfaction with the state of the country necessarily signifies dissatisfaction with the state religion.
An offline farsi dictionary and Arabic Alpha app (free for i Phone and Android) helped me get by and sped up aquiring some basic farsi. There are three main border crossings with Turkey, including Esendere and Bazargan. At least one with Azerbaijan and one with Pakistan at Taftan/ Mirjaveh, Bandar Abbas and Bandar Lengeh are sea ports if coming by ferry from United Arab Emirates. Some entered Iran at the Yuksekova-Esendere border. It's amazing if you know that a hundred meters back on the Turkish side most people would understand 'autostop'. Iran has almost the worst death toll due to traffic in the world.
But the Islamic faith of some young Iranians comes with conditions."In Iran the Koran is still made to mean that thieves must have their hands cut off and women who have sex with a man not their husband are stoned to death," another man said.
"The world changes with time and Islam must change with the world."While Iran's religion and Iran's government might have a lot in common, many Iranians urge that they should remain separate lest one pollute the other."In the West they see what the Iranian government does and thinks that this is Islam," said one young woman, holding two cupped hands together and slowly pulling them apart, "but actually they are not the same."President Ahmenidajad is not a popular man - even with one staunch defender of the Islamic Republic with whom I spent an extremely pleasant hour chatting."The government is not perfect," he readily conceded, before qualifying that, "no government anywhere is perfect and we are learning."Another man, a committed pragmatist, was always trying to find the positive in everything we spoke about, and looked for a positive in Ahmedinajad's presidency."I know the West thinks Ahmenidajad is shit but he has not been all bad," he said.
"He has seen the change in what people want and is slowly allowing more liberty.
Slow steps."But the steps are too slow for another middle-aged man."Life in Iran is like chasing a mirage - you are walking in the desert and think you see water but it turns out to be not.
We cannot even hold hands with our girlfriends.""It is my life," said another man, "and if I want to drink whisky I should be able to drink whisky."Chatting with two young women and a young man in a tea-house I was asked if I thought Iran was boring."No, not at all," I answered.